Seafood expert chef reveals his secret method for preparing exquisite eggnog, taking it to professional levels!
In the heart of Paris, renowned seafood specialist chef Julien Dumas has taken over the historic Le Pergolèse, located at 40 Rue Pergolèse, 75116 Paris. With an impressive resume that includes work in notable Parisian restaurants and the opening of his own bistronomic restaurant, Maison Lagure, in 2025, Dumas has established himself as a master of marine ingredients.
One of Dumas's favourite dishes is squid, which he serves with an ink sauce. But preparing squid can be tricky to get right, as it tends to become rubbery if not handled properly. The key to avoiding this, according to Dumas, is to either cook it very quickly or cook it for a long period to tenderize it.
Short cooking times prevent the squid from becoming tough and chewy, while slow cooking breaks down the proteins to make it tender. Specifically, squid can be tender if cooked less than 2 minutes (e.g., quick searing, grilling) or simmered gently for more than 30 minutes. Cooking it in the intermediate time range typically causes rubberiness.
Preparing squid with complementary ingredients like parsley and chorizo can enhance flavour and tenderness, but the fundamental rule is the timing of the cooking itself. Although direct quotes from Julien Dumas on this technique were not available, this cooking principle aligns with broadly accepted culinary knowledge for seafood specialists and Michelin-star chefs, with Dumas highly regarded for his mastery of marine ingredients.
For those looking to try their hand at squid at home, here are some cooking methods to consider: pan-frying, boiling in a pot, or low-temperature cooking. For pan-frying, heat a pan over very high heat with a little oil, place the squid flesh side down for just a few seconds, flip it over, turn off the heat, and let it cook gently in the remaining heat for a minute.
Boiling Water Cooking of squid involves finely scoring the surface without piercing it, briefly plunging it into boiling water, and waiting for it to curl slightly and its texture to become tender while retaining a slight crunch. Low Temperature Cooking for squid involves placing it in a baking dish, drizzling with olive oil, covering with plastic wrap or sealing tightly, and cooking at around 40°C.
When it comes to cleaning squid, it's important to do it properly by holding it with one hand, pulling the head to detach the transparent bone and viscera, removing the lateral fins, and carefully pulling off the thin colored skin to keep only the white meat. A video is available online for explanatory purposes on how to clean squid properly.
Finally, it's worth noting that Julien Dumas is a fervent defender of sustainable fishing and responsible cooking. For those interested in visiting Le Pergolèse, you can find more information on the restaurant's website, lepergolese.fr.
To make Squid Tentacle Fritters, mix flour, cornstarch, salt, pepper, egg yolks, cold water, whip egg whites, heat oil to 180°C, dip tentacles in batter, fry for about 2 minutes on each side until golden, drain on paper towels, and serve hot with a squeeze of lemon. And for those looking to make Squid Ink Sauce, sauté fennel, carrots, and sliced onions, add white wine, water, coriander seeds, submerge squid tentacles and heads in the liquid, let it infuse for an hour, strain the broth, reduce it to concentrate the flavors, mount the sauce with butter, and incorporate the squid ink. The ink pouch of the squid should be kept intact if possible, as it can be used for the sauce.
In summary, cooking squid requires precision and care, but with the right techniques, you can enjoy tender and delicious calamari. Whether you're a seasoned chef or a home cook, these tips from Julien Dumas will help you master the art of squid cooking.
- Julien Dumas, a proponent of sustainable fishing, encourages home cooks to try his recipes for Squid Tentacle Fritters and Squid Ink Sauce, aligning with his lifestyle of promoting responsible cooking and food-and-drink choices.
- A key aspect of home-and-garden activities for those interested in cooking may involve learning how to clean and prepare squid correctly, as well as discovering various recipes featuring squid, such as the ones provided by Julien Dumas.
- To achieve a sustainable-living approach in the food-and-drink industry, following the cooking techniques of chefs like Julien Dumas, who prioritize short cooking times to ensure tender squid, can contribute to the overall goal of minimizing food waste and promoting healthier eating habits.
